花東

一, 2009/02/16 - 05:30 — 小島

這次出遊前沒有找什麼資料,好久沒有到林田山,設定好從縱谷繞海岸線回來之後,和先生就分頭訂住宿的地方。

一直好想再上林田山,其實更想去的是萬榮裡那個夜裡看滿天星斗的坡地和聽的到雞鳴與煙炊的小村,一入口會看到警察局矗立在矮樹叢後面,還記得老太太跟我說過去日治時代念小學還有警察的事。

進林田山前卻看到此行嘆為奇觀的滿妹豬腳,小工寮似的滿妹豬腳,搖身一變變成洗石子的大房子,餐廳裡人滿滿的,對面還有林田山豬腳。

進林田山時,還記得是第一次在那邊看到螢火蟲,左側的空地興建些未完工的原住民風民宿,工廠已經遷移,看著荒廢的工地,在萬榮的原住民是不是還是沒有在這個殖民建築景點裡,找到發展的空隙。

從台11台東往花蓮路上,在伽路蘭和芭崎休息,伽路蘭的公共藝術和地景營造讓人驚豔,是漂流木所創造的原住民藝術。芭崎是東管處新設的休息區,小小的休息區裡,放的小藝品一半以上應該是當地的原住民工作室做的,比西部走老街的民藝品店清新很多。很可惜行前沒找什麼資料,都蘭的糖廠聽說蠻好玩,有撒古流的展覽,都歷也有原住民工作室,若是加上上次去的拉黑子的工作室、項鍊工作室還有也是在項鍊附近的一個工作室。覺得這十年東部原住民有發展出他們的東西。

在台東最遠到太麻里,金峰鄉的新興國小,在排灣族的部落裡,校長對小學孩子狀況的洞見是孩子的學習狀況,是來自於父母的失業,他協助家長成立原愛布工坊讓媽媽有工作,幫爸爸成立原愛木工坊,一年或許二十萬的收入,他們的生活就可以改善。同樣是漂流木的家具,質樸的舒服。小小的學校經營得很舒服,不是大建築師大錢進到學校,卻是一點點的錢,由部落的人自己營造的手作空間的感覺,處處符合使用者的需要。

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林田山不知道現在變什麼樣子了!!

林田山是我跟同學Ellen在八年前好不容易開車找到路進去參觀,當時禮堂還在修建,記憶中,那是一個很有味道但沒什麼人煙的地方。不知道現在變什麼樣子了?有照片可以觀賞嗎?

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