【寶島台灣】尋找府城三大牌匾──府城隍廟、天壇與竹溪寺

四, 2010/03/25 - 19:48 — 陳晉茂


府城隍廟前的八仙過海木雕


我喜歡台南。

一方面可能因為老婆是台南人的緣故,讓我有更多機會認識這個地方;再者,某些方面與京都相似的古都,充滿著各樣古蹟,而且這些古蹟就在生活之中;當然,台南小吃也可能是個原因。

府城隍廟:爾來了

每次到台南,我幾乎一定會做的事包括到成大走走、找間環境舒適的餐飲店悠閒看書,吃個小吃,再來就是到不同的古蹟走走看看。這一天,老婆帶我到東菜市阿粉姨紅茶牛奶向年近八旬、頭髮依然每天吹得漂漂亮亮的阿粉姨買了杯紅茶牛奶。

走出東菜市不久,就來到外表不甚起眼(其實是我沒有充分觀察)、面積似乎不大的府城隍廟。說真的,這裡我經過很多次,卻真的不知道它竟是二級古蹟。府城隍廟確定在明朝永曆23年(西元1669年)便已經存在,是全台最老的城隍廟。城隍廟當然就是供奉城隍爺的,而城隍爺掌管陰間事宜,所有人時候到了都要和他見上一面......


結算一下此生善惡帳

刑具

進到城隍廟,廟中許多的陳設和一般廟大不同。用來計算此生善惡的大算盤、用在為惡之人身上的刑具......再加上七爺八爺、文武判官,做惡之人來到此地,多少也會有點感覺吧。不過,最讓人震撼的還是懸於三川門正中央的「爾來了」牌匾。爾來了就是你來了,簡單、字體渾厚的三字牌匾,出現在城隍廟,相當有感覺啊!好像在說:「你終於來了!」、「總有一天等到你......」各種聯想很容易就浮現。


爾來了

看了牌匾介紹,原來大有來頭,其歷史性、藝術性、與意義使其成為府城三大名匾之一。我看了之後因為很有感覺,當下決定要一探另兩塊名匾的究竟。


 
天壇:一

三大名匾之二位在天壇。此天壇主要祀奉的是玉皇大帝,也就是小時最愛問的問題:哪個神最厲害?通常會得到的答案。天壇歷史約一百五十年,為三級古蹟。而天壇的名匾上所寫的只有一字:一。一?這字雖然寫得蒼勁有力,但到底有什麼意思?仔細觀察,在一字匾周圍,還圍著密密麻麻的小字:

 世人枉費用心機
天理昭彰不可欺
任爾通盤都打算
有餘殃慶總難移
盡歸善報無相負
盡歸惡報誰便宜
見善則遷由自主
轉福為禍亦隨時
若猶昧理思為惡
此念初萌天必知
報應分毫終不爽
只爭來早與來遲

 

似乎告訴我們,千算萬算,都比不上老天一劃。


天壇一字匾


天壇另一匾

這讓我想起以前大學時因主修電子計算機科學,一年系上通訊錄寫著:人算不如天算,天算不如電算。其實怎麼算都比不上天算,人定勝天這種想法實在過於自大......不過,這都得要到而立之年後我才真正的接受。

 

竹溪寺:了然世界

欣賞過兩塊很有感覺的名匾,第三塊說什麼也要看到。這塊名匾位於竹溪寺,在台南體育公園附近。我到這兒來參加網球比賽時遠遠看過,附近有名的餐飲店ORO也是我常造訪之處。


寺前彌勒佛

 
兩隻大象

竹溪寺就外觀看起來像是現代興建的寺廟,我還納悶這名匾怎麼會置於此處?原來竹溪寺是台灣最早的佛教寺院,建於明朝永曆年間,過去名為小西天寺,因緊鄰竹溪故更名為竹溪寺。
不過現在的建築則是民國七十二年所建,已經失去了古意。對我來說,欣賞價值大減。但竹溪寺幅員廣大,大門坐著的一尊彌勒佛與入內後的兩隻大象石雕都很有味道。

我進入竹溪寺時,剛好一群人正在寺內唸誦經文,我還擔心無法如願看到當日重頭戲──牌匾。所幸,四個大字的牌匾就掛在正殿中央,我從側邊往內看還是得以一見其面貌。在較現代化的寺院中出現這塊古樸的牌匾,有種奇妙的感動,上面的文字「了然世界」更深具禪意。少了見到前兩塊匾額的那份震撼,卻多了一種平靜。這一生,我最終所追求的不過就是此境界。這世界太大、太複雜,我不可能對於一切都了然於心。我所追求的了然世界只是我內心的世界。


竹溪寺之了然世界

了然世界、爾來了、一,讓單純的寺廟之旅充滿味道。其實除了這三大名匾,台南還有很多有歷史、有故事的牌匾。用心去玩味,會獲得很多樂趣。

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