【陰錯陽差的菊島之旅】絕對不只七美的七美嶼

四, 2010/07/22 - 13:53 — 陳晉茂


世界級風景--雙心石滬

 

澎湖南海的七美嶼是澎湖群島最南方的島嶼,這地名的由來傳說是明初的七位女子擔心受到倭寇所辱而投井自殺,後人填井為墓,七美人靈魂竟化身為長年翠綠的香楸樹。

傳說不知是否真實,不過七美嶼的確有個入內要收費的七美人塚。但這並不是我對七美嶼的期待。小小的七美嶼有許多震懾人心的景色,之前來澎湖沒能造訪此地一直有些遺憾。

到底七美有多美?我只能說,如果有人要我推薦台灣前五大景點,七美絕對在名單裡面。(太魯閣、蘭嶼也勢必在名單內,另外兩個我還得想想......

漁人的智慧與藝術:雙心石滬

石滬是先人用來捕魚的一種智慧結晶,我當兵時在白沙灣旁的麟山鼻就常看到,深深被其吸引。它的原理很簡單,就是在潮間帶疊砌石堤,以便在退潮時阻斷洄游魚群的退路,把魚兒圍困在石堤內來捕撈的陷阱漁法。我在麟山鼻所見的石滬比較單純,感覺就是圍成一個半圓,中間開個向內凹的口好在漲潮時讓魚兒可以進到石滬內。而七美的雙心石滬卻複雜許多!


雙心石滬周遭

雙心石滬感覺上又加了一個保險,變成兩個石滬──一旦魚兒進入第二層石滬,想趁漲潮時逃離陷阱的機率似乎更小了。而且,不知是有心還是無意,這兩層的石滬從崖上往下看,竟如同心心相印的兩個心形,也為這捕魚的陷阱增添幾許藝術的氣息。

我從崖上走到石滬旁,看著這神奇的景象,有股想沿著石堤走到石滬內游泳的衝動。如果真的這麼做了,崖上眾多正擺出美麗姿態照相的遊客、還有以雙心石滬見證永恆愛情的情侶不知道會不會打我?


靠近雙心石滬

雙心石滬歷史介紹

台灣還是女王頭:小台灣

台灣好生活電子報主編關魚最近出了一本探討媒體問題的新書《扭轉新聞》,這本書的封面正是七美的美景之一──小台灣。


澎湖的離島:小台灣

小台灣是個海蝕平台,形狀真是像極了台灣!海蝕平台一般來說都是完整的一片,能夠這麼不規則,又變成和台灣這麼相近的形狀,真的很不可思議。

換個角度來看,是不是也很像野柳的女王頭呢?

其他上天的傑作──分岔仔、石獅、望夫石......

讓我印象深刻的還不只這些。離小台灣不遠處,同一狹灣的另一邊,有個也很特殊而壯觀的景象──分岔仔。這個大自然創造的神奇地質景象,其實是玄武岩石柱,完全獨立的豎立在岸邊,如果身處在石柱與岸上之間,一定很恐怖。


鬼斧神工:分岔仔

石獅位在大獅風景區,遠眺過去真的就像隻獅子(或老虎、或貓)。這裡的美不只是地質之美,從制高點看下去,清澈的海水在陽光照射下看了非常舒服。如果你換個想法,把視野放大一些,也有人說這片地形像隻犀牛。


獅子還是犀牛

能發揮想像力的還有望夫石。傳說由於七美的男人以捕魚維生,太太總在岸邊等著丈夫歸來。某日卻盼不到出海的夫君,就這樣,一天、兩天、三天的等下去,直到倒地不起。最後化成岩石。看得出來嗎?頭、胸、懷孕的腹部,頭上還有不同顏色的髮絲呢!


左邊是頭

如果下次來到澎湖,我一定會選擇在七美停留一晚。我將趁著清晨到雙心石滬游泳;趁退潮爬上小台灣;還要走到分岔仔底部感受那能提醒自己很渺小的雄偉。

 

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太棒的介紹!

謝謝你的分享, 真的是讓人驚豔的介紹, 下回回台灣, 一定要找機會去七美走走. Thanks again!

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